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Value is really a relative concept. Just ask individuals at Lehman Brothers. However when you are looking at ingredients and kitchen tools that beckon to the enthusiastic home cook, you need to tha harsh truth -- in this instance, an excellent meal -- to take a glance at what's really worth your hard-earned cash -- and what isn't.
We scrutinized our kitchens and the merchandise. Our thumbs-up, thumbs-down verdicts on the handful of dozen popular or hyped cooking items follow. No apologies -- we're opinionated. Some gadgets and goodies are grossly overvalued,[link widoczny dla zalogowanych], others just don't get their due. We considered cost,[link widoczny dla zalogowanych], efficacy and practicality -- along with the happiness factor. Because for any true chocoholic,[link widoczny dla zalogowanych], a 3.5-ounce bar of Michel Cluizel Noir de Cacao 72% cacao is really worth $6.
Obviously, a lot of this really is open for discussion, even heated debate. Is really a 1-ounce tin of Spanish saffron well worth $199? What about a $60 Rachael Ray fondue pot?
With apologies to Socrates: The unexamined kitchen cabinet isn't worth opening. And it is definitely not worth filling with even more stuff.
With regards to kitchen tools,[link widoczny dla zalogowanych], I am a big fan of the simpler the greater. And you can't get much simpler than the usual mortar and pestle. Basically simply two rocks that you use to grind food,[link widoczny dla zalogowanych], it hasn't really been improved because the Stone Age. However when something is perfect, why mess with it? You can spend $100 on a French marble one from an antique store, or else you can pick up one made of granite in a Thai supermarket for under $25. That's obvious for baking,[link widoczny dla zalogowanych], where the way you scoop flour right into a measuring cup could make over a 20% difference in quantity. But it is also true for other forms of cooking. Measuring by weight opens up the hidden ratios of cooking in a manner that volume measuring can't (actually, my pal Michael Ruhlman is writing a magazine on that subject). For example,[link widoczny dla zalogowanych], a vintage mirepoix has equal weights of chopped carrots and celery and double the amount onion. That ratio is unseen up in cup measurements. You'll find a really good digital electronic kitchen scale for less than $30. Both things to look for really are a capacity of at least Ten pounds along with a "tare" feature that can help those of us who're not mathematically inclined to allow for the weight of bowls, etc. And it is some investment -- a good roaster will most likely cost within the neighborhood of $150. But when you're going to splurge on a good pan,[link widoczny dla zalogowanych], this is one of the places to get it done. Search for pans with low sides that permit air circulation. It's not like it's cloning wild mushrooms or something like that. Actually, almost any idiot makes it in your own home quite easily. I'm a prime example. I've kept a big jug going on my counter for more than Fifteen years. But I can rely on one hand the number of times I've had white truffles within this country that approach the quality of those you get in Italy. There,[link widoczny dla zalogowanych], you can smell the truffles being sliced from over the room. Here, most of the time you practically need to bury your nose inside a dish before you get any of their perfume. I do not even place it away; it endures my stove. These lidded pots usually cost $100 to $200 (the cost varies a great deal, depending on the size and manufacturer),[link widoczny dla zalogowanych], but you can use them on the stove top as well as in the oven, for soups,[link widoczny dla zalogowanych], braises, casseroles,[link widoczny dla zalogowanych], boiling pasta and making sauces. I even use mine to make cobblers. They conduct heat amazingly well, are pretty enough to serve in,[link widoczny dla zalogowanych], and they're so durable that they'll survive us all. Even extract made from real vanilla is not on the beans themselves. Scrape the seeds into sauces and doughs,[link widoczny dla zalogowanych], steep the husks in vats of cr anglaise for ice cream. You can reuse the beans too. After they're dried, bury them inside your sugar bowl for homemade vanilla sugar. They rely on its grassy flavor and startling yellow color. Authenticity has its price, obviously, but it is not so bad considering how little you need from the stuff. It is also a different one of these wacky ingredients that make you think, wow, who comes up with this stuff? Dried crocus stigmas. With listings from abaisse (a sheet of rolled-out pastry) to zuppa inglese (a 1800s "English" dessert introduced by Neapolitan pastry cooks), lots of recipes and definitions, and compiled with the help of luminaries for example Jo Robuchon and Pierre Herm it's as fun as it is useful. Bagels really go to town them, crumbs burn up in the trays at the base, you have to remember to clean the trays on the bottom. They don't have to be dear, but they sure could be: $30 for a Black Decker 2-slice; $320 for a Dualit 4-slice. But who eats toast any more anyway? I love grilled bread much better,[link widoczny dla zalogowanych], made outside about the grill or inside in a cast iron skillet.相关的主题文章：

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